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Decoupage on Crackle Finishes

How to Finish Off a Decoupage on Crackle Project

I have another variation on the oil and water don't mix theme of questions/problems. I had an old desk that I decided to crackle paint. The old base coat was ivory and I used wood glue followed by black acrylic paint and came out with a nice looking crackle finish.

I sealed with Polyurethane spray (oil based, because I figured water based sealer would have crackled just like the water based acrylic paint).

Anyhow, although it turned out okay, it was too much black and too much crackle for my taste. At our local used book store I found a book with nice reproductions of antique maps and decided to decoupage them onto the drawers and the center of the top.

Since the drawers never had been crackle painted, they worked great.

The top surface, with its oil based sealer, did not go so well. I have a few spots where bubbles appeared on subsequent coats of Mod Podge. I tried to rub them out, but there was no where for them to go since the edges were sealed firm.

If anything, trying to force them out actually caused more separation from the piece.

After drying, the bubbles 'calm down', but come right back with additional layers of Mod Podge. I tried the pin prick idea, but I guess I didn't do it soon enough in the process. Though I wish there were no bubbles, when the Mod Podge dries and the bubbles nearly flatten, I can live with it.

I'm a bit stumped about the best method for sealing though. If I used a water based (acrylic) sealer as recommended on the Mod Podge bottle, I'm worried those bubbles are going to come back and get sealed in their raised state.

I want to apply some varnish to help make the writing surface nice and level, and maybe I can skip the acrylic sealer step and go straight to varnish instead?

I have both water based and oil based varnish and sealers available but am unsure which one(s) to use to best minimize the blasted bubbles from popping back up during the final step.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Cathy

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While it’s true that oil and water don’t mix, once a surface is completely cured the liquids have evaporated.

Problem is people usually don’t allow enough cure time. That’s why the manufacturers of Mod Podge recommend an acrylic sealer. If a layer has cured, you can use either water- or oil-based sealers.

Durwin Rice, America’s foremost decoupage artist and author of New Decoupage occasionally combines oil- and water-based products.

Read some of Durwin’s tips. You’ll also find info on how he minimizes bubbles.

You can use varnish which will yellow over time and add to the antique look of the maps you decoupaged on the surfaces; but I have another suggestion.

Since the top will be a writing surface, you might consider one of the two-part epoxy bar top finishes. Not only will this be more durable, but since the formulas are thick and self-leveling it would completely hide any bubbles.

Your design ideas sound terrific. If the project comes out to your liking, I would love to post a photo along with your letter. Good luck.

For more on decoupage, visit The Decoupage Index Page.

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Recommended Reading

These books are excellent resources for decoupeurs. Not only do you get tips and techniques, but also artwork that you can use in your own projects.

New Decoupage: Transforming Your Home With Paper, Glue, and Scissors By: Durwin Rice The Victorian Scrap Gallery: A Collection of over 500 Full-Color Victorian-Era Images By: Dee Davis Absolute Beginner's Decoupage: The Simple Step-By-Step Guide to Creating Beautiful Decoupage By: Alison Jenkins Collage Discovery Workshop: Make Your Own Collage Creations Using Vintage Photos, Found Objects and Ephemera By: Claudine Hellmuth 930 Matchbook Advertising Cuts of the Twenties and Thirties (Pictorial Archive Series) By: Trina Robbins Decoupage: A Practical Guide to the Art of Decorating Surfaces with Paper Cutouts By: Dee Davis

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