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Decoupage Methods

Decoupage Instructions & Ideas

Decoupage is fun and easy to do. These steps will help ensure that your decoupage project turns out beautifully.

Decoupage Basics

1. Prep

Prepare your decoupage project base. Wood needs to be pristinely smooth and dust-free. If the wood will be entirely covered with images, there is no need to paint or stain it. You're ready to begin.

After sanding and dusting, if you want a painted background seal with sandable spray primer (like Krylon); then given two or three thin coats of paint.

After sanding and dusting, if you want a stained background, use a water-soluble, alcohol-based wood stain. Do a test board. You may also need to seal the wood. Oil stains are not recommended for decoupage because of the problems they can cause.

For much more information on the preparation of wood surfaces for decoupage, please visit Wood Finishes for Decoupage.

Glass should be washed, dried and wiped with alcohol.

Metal needs to be coated with rust resistant paint and then two to three thin coats of water based paint.

2. Cut

Before cutting out your image, you may want to have color copies made (if the work is not copyrighted) to preserve the original art or in case your first attempt is not successful. Copies are best made on bright white paper; so take your own paper to the copy center.

If you want to use prints from an ink jet printer, allow the ink to dry thoroughly, and test your glue on the print. The moisture in the glue may smear the ink jet ink.

Lower moisture content glues may work. Barring that, you will need to have laser copies of your ink jet image made. For tips on pre-treating paper images to prevent bleeding, please visit How to Prevent Ink Bleeding In Decoupage Projects.

If you would like sharper outlines on your decoupage image, simply add them with pen and ink or thin marker.

Using a sharp scissors or other cutting implement, like a craft knife, cut out the image. Angle the blade slightly to the outside of the picture.

This gives a downward beveled edge and prevents the edge or back color from showing on your final product. Take care not to leave any of the adjoining image or background.

3. Glue

Images are glued to the top of most decoupage projects but to the non-used side of clear glass projects. For example, if you are doing a clear glass plate, position your image on the back of the plate; then lay the plate upside down and glue the cutout face-down onto the plate. That way, the lacquer coat will not distort the smoothness of the glass surface; nor will it come in contact with any food you place on the plate.

If the artwork you want to apply is thin or fragile, brush on a coat of glue-sealant like Mod Podge or Elmer's Glue-all first. Let dry thoroughly.

Arrange the illustrations to your liking; then carefully glue them to your project using clear-drying PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue. Elmer’s Glue-All and Mod podge are the hands-down favorites for applying decoupage.

It is advisable to thin the glue a bit for glass because of glass’s non-porous surface. If the glue is too thick it has nowhere to go but into little lumps as you try to smooth the surface.

Use a brush to apply the glue, dipping it first in water then in the glue. Work from the center to the outside. Be sure you have prepared enough glue of proper consistency to complete each piece. You know how quickly white glue dries!

Smooth out any air bubbles using your fingertips and/or a rubber brayer. Wipe away any glue that has seeped out from behind your cutout with a damp cloth, sponge or paper towel, pressing as you go to secure the edges.

4. Lacquer

Let your project dry thoroughly. Apply lacquer coats, letting each coat dry completely before the next. Your project and the desired finish look will determine the type and number of layers needed. Mod Podge is the #1-selling decoupage glaze and comes in both clear and an antique yellow formula.

Multiple coats of the same PVA glue used earlier are also a common glaze medium.

Lacquer, especially polyurethane, is a good choice for furniture; but you must take care that dust cannot settle on your work before the lacquer sets. Some decoupeurs still prefer to use varnish, which gives a warm patina and darkens over time.

As a rule of thumb, the more layers of glaze or varnish applied, the more the paper cutouts will recede into the surface and the more they will appear to be actually painted on. This explains why so many people, even antiques experts, have been fooled into thinking that decoupaged antiques were hand painted by the masters.

Decoupage Materials

in no particular order (I’m brainstorming here!)

Tools and Special Effects

• Small precision scissors – Fiskars is the best, the ergonomic design makes precision cutting easier and less tiring
• Craft knife – dedicated to paper (don’t use the one you use to cut up cardboard boxes!); I prefer Olfa cutters which are designed for artists and crafters
• Razor blades
• Rubber brayer
• Rolling pin
• Plastic or latex gloves – the thinner, the better
• Rags, sponges &/or paper towels
• Thinners appropriate to your media
• Oil paints
• Acrylic paints
• High quality paintbrushes which will not deposit hairs on your work, for applying glue and lacquer
• Sandpaper or emery cloth
• Metallic nail polish for “backlighting”, especially pearl or mirror shine
• Gum Arabic for crackle finishes; acrylic paint on top will crack into fine lines allowing the base color to show through
• Rub ’n Buff – carnauba wax impregnated with metallic powders and pigments
• Glass or silk fabric paints such as Jacquard Lumière for transparent effects
• Gold, copper or silver leaf, as well as leaf size – the adhesive used for leafing stays tacky so you can take your time applying the leaf; I like Rolco Aquasize
• Metallic or leafing pens, available in gold (Krylon has the best gold color of any I’ve used), silver and copper
• High quality brushes to apply gold or silver leaf; I recommend a squirrel hair Gilder’s Tip brush
• Plaid Treasure metallic paste for a burnished look
• Krylon 18KT gold paint – for a super easy gold background effect

Project Bases

• Boxes – old cigar boxes, craft boxes (in various shapes from oval to heart shaped), sturdy cardboard or chipboard boxes, old hat boxes, wooden matchboxes
• Furniture – trunks, end tables or other small tables, armoires, stacking tables, trays (with or without stands), headboards, wastebaskets
• For wall art – masonite, wood, MDF (medium density fiberboard)
• Heavy paper such as chipboard or card stock

Image Sources

– this is the fun part!

• Books that you can cut pictures from; there are many printed just for this purpose (be careful not to violate another artist’s copyright!)
• Magazines and catalogues – again be careful about copyrights
• Napkins – peel off the backing layer
• Clip art – from your graphics program(s); purchased separately; or bought by subscription from sites such as

o RubberNation.com
o TenTwoStudios.com
o ButterflyUK.co.uk
o StockXpert.com
o VictorianClipArtDelite.com


• The following sites offer free images

o Free-Clipart.net
o 1Clipart.com
o Office.Microsoft.com/clipart
o Free-Graphics.com o CuddlyBuddly.com o VictorianClipArtDelite.com [Be sure to read the “Terms of Use” for any of the above.

If you do not have a laser printer, be sure to do the glue test above.]

• Gift wrap
• Lace paper doilies
• Foil-covered paper
• Drawer lining paper
• Old newspapers (especially of historic dates) or phone books (be sure to get clean copies first because the reverse image on originals frequently shows through)
• Patterned tissue paper
• Travel folders and brochures
• Copies of photos (the photos themselves would be destroyed by the gluing process)
• Wallpaper – after gluing to your project; let set; then peel off the backing layer
• Old greeting cards – or new ones for that matter!

Glues

• PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue, such as Elmer’s Glue-All
• Depending on the materials you are using, another type of glue may be more suitable. If you’re using something unique, type “’glue for’ whatever” into the Google search bar to consult the specialists.

Glazes

• Mod Podge by Plaid – the (modern) classic decoupage glaze
• Deco Art “Patio Paint” Clear Coat
• PVA glue – undiluted
• For more durable finishes on heavily used items, the choices are varnish (including polyurethane), shellac, lacquer, and water-based wood finishes. For assistance in making your choice, read my article on "Wood Finishes for Decoupage".

Other Resources

If you are accumulating a lot of clip art or photos, download this free program from Google (what a company!) - Picasa

For more on decoupage, visit The Decoupage Index Page.

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Recommended Reading

These books are excellent resources for decoupeurs. Not only do you get tips and techniques, but also artwork that you can use in your own projects.
New Decoupage: Transforming Your Home With Paper, Glue, and Scissors By: Durwin Rice The Victorian Scrap Gallery: A Collection of over 500 Full-Color Victorian-Era Images By: Dee Davis Absolute Beginner's Decoupage: The Simple Step-By-Step Guide to Creating Beautiful Decoupage By: Alison Jenkins Collage Discovery Workshop: Make Your Own Collage Creations Using Vintage Photos, Found Objects and Ephemera By: Claudine Hellmuth 930 Matchbook Advertising Cuts of the Twenties and Thirties (Pictorial Archive Series) By: Trina Robbins Decoupage: A Practical Guide to the Art of Decorating Surfaces with Paper Cutouts By: Dee Davis

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