Dry Embossing

Add Dimension & Value to Your Paper Crafts with Dry Embossing

Dry Embossing is an easy technique that creates dimension and adds texture and elegance to your page. I have used dry embossing techniques to create distinctive cards, usually containing my customer's monogram and an elegant raised border.

I have found I can charge premium prices for a nicely boxed set of cards and matching envelopes.

Dry Embossing Using a Light Box

Until recently, you needed a light box or strong light source for dry embossing. The light source is placed under the embossing stencil, with the paper to be impressed on top and both secured in place with pegs or tape. Using a stylus, you trace the outline of the design - and the outline only.

This results in a nice rounded raised section; if you attempt to rub out the entire embossed area, the result will be messy and very inelegant.

Since you're working upside down, any directional designs, such as letters or arrows, need to be traced in reverse. Generally you want a heavy paper which will take and hold your embossed impression. Do test your papers first! I usually use my favorite: manila file folders.

The paper you choose makes a big difference on in the final outcome. Please visit, How to Choose the Right Paper for Your Craft Project for tips and ideas on how to choose the right paper.

When I first decided to try dry embossing, I went to my local craft superstore and spent what seemed like hours trying to decide what pieces I needed. It was mind boggling; and there didn't seem to be a clerk on duty who knew anything about embossing.

There were many expensive dry embossing tools: light boxes, brass stencils, instruction books, various sizes of styluses. I was just about to conclude that I could never make a profit with dry embossing when a very kind lady tapped me on the shoulder and said, "I see you're having a hard time deciding. I give embossing classes. Let me give you a few tips."

She suggested I try dry embossing with things I already had at home. If I liked it, I would have a better idea of what direction to go.

Rather than buying a light box, you can use a window on a bright day. Just tape your embossing stencil or design to the window. However this means working vertically and probably standing up.

So I took another of her tips and made my own primitive light box: a piece of glass from an old picture frame taped to a plastic frame from a hanging drawer I wasn't using. Placing my mounted glass across two chairs allowed room to put a bright light underneath.

It was not all that convenient and it wobbled a bit; but allowed me to experiment and get started. I soon found other uses for my light table, for example basic tracing and reversing designs. So it still comes in quite handy.

If you prefer to buy a light box rather than make your own, here's what to look for. The box should have well-distributed lighting. That usually means having more than one light bulb.

It should be ergonomic - either with a slanted top which is comfortable for you or a top that can be tilted to suit various users. Think about whether you want it to be easily portable or whether you prefer to leave it set up at all times.

A highly rated, inexpensive desktop model is the Artograph Light Tracer Lite Box. It meets my basic requirements and I feel it would be more that adequate for most uses.

A light box has so many craft uses that I really recommend one even if you buy the Fiskars Shapeboss for your dry embossing projects.

Here is my review of the ShapeBoss system.