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Blind Hemming Silk

Hemming Silk Dresses

I recently was hired to sew a couple of junior bridesmaid dresses.

I was told that I did the work of a professional, but I was not happy with the hemming.

I did a hand stitched hem and only picked up one thread of the silk fabric, but it still showed on the right side of the finished hem.

I made sure that the stitches were even and in line. I was just unhappy because I could see the stitches.

Is there a different way to hem silk dresses? Is it possible to apply some type of glue that won't be stiff?

Karen

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I think it’s almost impossible to sew a truly invisible hem on sheer silk or chiffon. You did exactly right to pick up only one thread per stitch and keep the stitches as evenly spaced as humanly possible. The closer in color and weight to the sheer material your thread is, the less visible will be the stitches.

I know seamstresses who have tried for invisible hems using invisible thread. Makes sense, right?

However they too were disappointed; since the thread, while it is invisible in the sense that it has no color, has a very visible sheen and catches the light differently from the sheer fabric.

In a perfect world, you would be able to find the same thread from the same dye lot used to weave the fabric. In the real world, professional seamstresses (like you) search far and wide for the closest match they can find. I’m sure the junior bridesmaids were absolutely thrilled with your fine work.

Here are a couple of tips that might help if you ever get called on again for silk hems.

Use a single strand of thread. I think you did that, but just in case …

Make your stitches about ¼ inch apart.

Don’t pull too tight to avoid telltale puckers on the right side.

About every 4 inches, take a couple of stitches in the hem allowance. This works like a knot and prevents the stitches from being pulled too far in one direction. Also should the wearer catch her heel in the hem, only that 4 inches of the hem will be undone.

You could also try a catch-stitch rather than a running stitch when doing hand hems.

This stitch is worked with the needle pointing in the opposite direction to the thread, so you are stitching from right to left with the thread going from left to right (reverse this if you are left-handed). Every stitch then forms a loop on itself, kind of a mini-hammock from which the stitch swings.

This stitch usually shows less on the right side, as there is less stress placed on the fabric.

Finally I think any tape or glue would show even more than a carefully hand sewn hem and may even add enough weight to give the skirt a noticeably unusual drape.

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