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Lace Coaster

Does a Handmade Lace Coaster Need to Be Stabilized?

I want to make some lace coasters using my Brother PC 8500 embroidery machine.

What do you use as a stabilizer to do the lace embroidery? If you are doing coasters using a dissolving stabilizer, what protects the surface of what you are using the coaster for?

I am into embroidery and am trying to learn as much as I can.

Katherine

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[Editor’s Note: Katherine is referring to Richelieu or cutwork embroidery. This beautiful heirloom craft is enjoying a resurgence thanks in part to the relative affordability of home embroidery (sewing) machines.

It is sometimes referred to as linen lace because linen is well-suited to the process. As the word cutwork implies, the delicate design is formed by cutting out pieces of the linen (think of a snowflake) and then binding the raw edges with embroidery.]

Cutwork lace coasters function more like cocktail napkins than like coasters. A cocktail napkin protects surfaces by absorbing moisture and should not be left on surfaces subject to water damage for extended periods. After your guests have left, simply pick up their glasses and your delicate cutwork coasters. Lay the coasters on an impermeable surface to dry before storing.

You can stiffen cutwork lace coasters using white glue such as Elmer’s Glue-All diluted with water. This also serves to make your work relatively impervious to water. However, I wouldn’t recommend this for your coasters because the moisture from the drink glasses would tend to run off the coasters and accumulate in the cut out areas – directly onto the surface you are trying to protect!

As for what type of stabilizer you should use when embroidering the coasters, you are correct that a dissolving or wash-away stabilizer would be best.

Wash-away stabilizers are available in several forms: film or soluble paper, both of which can be hooped with the fabric; and liquids that stiffen when brushed or sprayed on the fabric and allowed to dry.

If you are using a film wash-away stabilizer, be sure to store any extra sheets in a tightly-sealed Ziploc bag. They stiffen and become useless when exposed to air for extended periods.

You may have to do a couple of test coasters to determine the proper amount of stabilization required. The goal is a taut flat hooped fabric that does not stretch in any direction and is not so brittle that it splits and cracks. With a heavier stabilizer, one layer may be sufficient.

You also want to see how your design stitches out. You want to be sure the stitches support themselves and that the design holds together once the stabilizer is removed.

If the design does not hold together or you would like more dimension, sandwich a piece of sheer fabric such as organza or tulle between the stabilizer and your fabric. Select a color close to that of your linen.

After embroidering, remove the design from the hoop and cut away excess stabilizer. Immerse the piece in lukewarm water and swish it around until the stabilizer dissolves.

Change the water and swish again.

Finally, hold the piece under running water to flush out any remaining stabilizer.

Lay flat to dry. If your piece curls and requires ironing, lay it right side down on a thick terry towel and press the wrong side. This will preserve the depth of design on the top.

Carefully trim away any sheer fabric outside the design area.

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