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Usually, tooling is done on full grain vegetable-tanned leather. Full grain leather has a firm even surface.
Vegetable-tanned (including oak-bark tanned) leather absorbs water best. A firm even surface and good absorbency are essential to obtaining precise and clear tool marks. The leather should not be oiled or waxed in any way since this reduces absorbency.
Top grain leather is not recommended for tooling because the hide may have weak spots where repairs were done. Top grain leather has had the outer layer of skin removed.
Any obvious scars or insect bite blemishes that remain are sanded off and an imitation grain is embossed into the leather. The leather looks fine and natural. It’s just not the ideal surface for tooling.
By the way, calfskin is preferred over the hide of older cows for tooling. Calfskin has the same abrasion resistance as cowhide, but because the fiber structure is denser, calfskin is stronger.
Question 2: Is there such a thing as “tooling leather” that is not cowhide?
Yes. Find out about tooling pigskin and goatskin and kangaroo skin by clicking the links.If you would like to experiment with some other vegetable-tanned animal hides, get scraps and test. Wet a corner and try making lines with your tools.
Does the leather hold a line? Just because cowhide is so popular for tooling, doesn’t mean there aren’t other, as yet untried, alternatives.
One of the reasons that cowhide is used so predominately is that it is a by-product of the beef industry and is readily available.
The cows are not bred and raised for their hides. If the hides were not used to make leather goods, they would go to waste.
Leather Tooling Classics
If you’re really serious about leather tooling, here are a couple of classic books on the subject. These are both out of print, but can be bought used: The Art & Craft of Leatherwork
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