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The Right Thread

Picking the Right Thread for Your Sewing Project

How Do You Know If You're Using The Right Thread?

By Sarah J Doyle
excerpt from "Basic Clothing Construction"

Thread type is chosen for its compatibility with the fabric's structure and fiber content as well as the type of project being worked on.

There are many types of threads - carpet thread, darning thread, embroidery thread, crochet thread, basting thread, and buttonhole twist as examples. This article will deal only with the threads that are primarily used with most projects done on a sewing machine.

The following describes various types of sewing thread and their usage. Where size numbers apply, the higher the number, the finer the thread - the median size is 50. Where letters indicate the size, A is fine and D is heavy.

General Purpose Sewing Threads

Cotton: A medium thickness (size 50) is available in a wide range of colors, and is used for sewing on light and medium weight cottons, rayons and linens. Cotton sewing thread is usually mercerized, a finishing process that makes it smooth and lustrous, also helping it to take dye better. The lack of "give" in cotton thread makes it an unwise choice for knits or other stretchy fabrics, as the stitches will tend to pop.

Silk: A fine (size A) strong thread for sewing on silk and wool. Its fineness makes it ideal for basting all fabric types, as it does not leave holes from stitching or imprints after pressing. Because of its elasticity, silk is also suitable for sewing any type of knit. Silk thread is recommended for tailoring because it can be molded along with the fabric in shaped areas.

Nylon: A fine (size A) strong thread for sewing light to medium weight synthetics. This is especially suited to nylon tricot.

Polyester: An all-purpose weight (approximately size 50) is suitable for sewing on most fabrics, but particularly recommended for woven synthetics; also for knits and other stretch fabrics of any fiber. Most polyester sewing threads have a wax or silicone finish to help them slip through the fabric with a minimum of friction.

Cotton-wrapped Polyester: An all-purpose weight (approximately size 50) for sewing on knits or wovens of synthetic or natural fibers or blends. The polyester core gives this type of thread strength and elasticity, the cotton wrapping gives it a tough, heat resistant surface.

Heavy Duty Sewing Threads

Cotton; Polyester; Cotton-wrapped Polyester: These are coarse threads (approximately size 40) used where extra strength is required for sewing of heavy vinyl, coating or upholstery fabrics.

Regardless of the project you will be working on, it is very important to purchase a good quality sewing thread. The "5 spools of thread for a buck" is not a bargain.

The fibers of the "bargain" threads split easily while you're sewing and can cause knotting of the thread, breakage of the thread and can also cause a build-up of lint in the bobbin area and along the thread line from the spool to the needle. If you hold a length of the bargain thread up to a light you can readily see the frayed edges and roughness of the thread.

When buying sewing thread for your project, it is recommended that you select thread one shade darker than the fabric in order for it to blend in harmoniously. If the fabric is a plaid or multi-color print, select that color that is most dominant.

About the author

Sarah J. Doyle is author of over 25 sewing, craft and how-to books, as well as author of online pattern making, sewing and craft classes.

Visit Learn How to Sew and Clothing Construction for more tips and how-to information on sewing and crafting.

See Sarah J Doyle for additional articles and information.

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Recommended Reading

These books are excellent resources for sewers of all skill levels.

Sew to Success: How to Make Money in a Home-Based Sewing Business
By: Kathleen Spike

Simplicity's Simply the Best Sewing Book
By: Anne Marie Soto

Sewing for Dummies
By: Janice Saunders Maresh

The Complete Book of Sewing: A Practical Step-By-Step Guide to Every Technique
By: Chris Jefferys

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