Sewing Velvet

How to Get a Perfect Finish When Sewing Velvet

Can you tell me how I can sew stretch velvet panne fabric with a conventional sewing machine (not a serger or overlock machine)?

I know it can be done - I just don't know what kind of needle, thread, tension, etc. to use.

Please e-mail me with instructions or any ideas you may have.

Thanks.

Janice

Use polyester thread and a ballpoint or stretch needle, size 80/12 or 90/14.

If your sewing machine does zig zag stitching, use a narrow width zig zag and a medium stitch length.

Sew along the seam line without stretching the velvet fabric. The zig zag stitch will provide the stretch you need. Trim the seam allowance and using a wider zig zag stitch, overcast the edges.

If your sewing machine only does straight stitching, use a medium length stitch. Stretch the velvet in front and in back of the presser foot as you sew.

Trim the seam allowance. Using the same technique, sew a second seam close to the raw edges.

Do a couple of test swatches first to determine proper thread tension and number of stitches per inch (spi). The more stretch the fabric has, the greater the spi required. You will probably need between 12 and 14 spi.

To test your swatch, grasp one edge in each hand and pull away from the seam line. When you release, the seam line should return to a nice closed seam.

Next grasp each end of the seam and stretch to the maximum stretch level that the finished garment will be subjected to.

If the thread breaks, you need more needle thread in the stitch. Loosen the sewing needle thread tension and try again.

For more sewing tips, techniques and patterns, visit our Sewing Index page.